Nous joindre 
As I got off the bus that had taken me from Barcelona to this wonderful little village on the Spanish coast, the smell of the sea, salty, refreshing, and the evening breeze, seeped into my lungs, giving a second wind, languidly erasing all the fatigue and stress of the long journey and the 27 coffee-buses on the way. It's not easy to travel with a bike box that's twice my size, let me tell you! Even beautifully packaged by the bike magicians at Ekkip, the box remains just as imposing, and I just as small. I should have listened to mom and eaten my spinach. Three days later, my traps and biceps were still burning.
It was my third stay in Spain. While the majority of cyclists are all heading towards Girona, I have taken the habit of taking the opposite path (which says south, says warmer, even in the middle of winter). Three hours by bus south of Barcelona is a charming little holiday village, almost always sunny, which can be crossed on foot from one end to the other in less than 20 minutes. The temperature spoils us with a warm 10 to 25 degrees Celsius all year round. Populated mainly by retirees and tourists, and occasionally visited by some European teams in training camp before the start of the season in February, I have come to the conclusion that Benicarló is an excellent alternative to expensive cycling destinations such as Mallorca or Girona.
It didn't take me more than one bike ride to realize the true training potential that surrounds this haven of peace. 15 minutes from the village, I find myself in the hollow of the mountains, surrounded by winding roads as far as the eye can see, devoid of traffic, lined with almond, orange and olive trees. I have the wind in my helmet, and I cross my little toes hoping to have the strength to finish the 120km and 2000m of elevation planned on the agenda.
I'm far from having thoroughly explored the surroundings, but there are a few must-sees that I made sure not to miss. My very first day in Benicarló, thirsty for nature and mountains, like a novice, I ventured into the Serra d'Irta National Park. The first kilometers seemed rather rough to me, I had a lot of trouble climbing the hilly and gravelly terrain bordering the sea. What would I not have given to have a Trek Checkpoint to reel along the coast, or even a Top Fuel! Too stubborn to turn back, I was determined to do what I could. I bitterly regretted my fearlessness when 2km further, I saw the gravel turn into small rocks…and then into larger rocks, the size of a tangerine. Mountain bikers marched in opposite directions, staring at me on my little carbon road bike, struggling to stay upright. It was only twenty kilometers of coarse gravel later that I found the smooth roads of Spain. A whole adventure that I am happy to tell, like what you have to know how to laugh at yourself.
After 10km of coarse gravel, a little respite on the horizon, an isolated campsite in the heart of the Serra d'Irta National Park!
I stuck to the road afterwards, asking the many local cyclists for advice before planning any long rides. And I was served! Whether we are talking about the path to Morella, one of the most beautiful historic villages in Spain, having hosted the arrival of the Tour of Spain more than once, or Fredes, or even the ascent of the Salzadella (my favorite), the roads are not lacking. They are "suave" and well cared for just the way we like them. The calm of the road makes it very pleasant. I went from one small village to another, gazing at the mountains, stopping halfway for a "cafecito" and leaving with as much enthusiasm as at the beginning.
By dint of staying there for two months twice in the last year, I ended up compiling a multitude of routes Strava which will suit all tastes as well as a list of rare gems to visit in this small village and the surrounding area, during bike rides. No need to mention the beauty of the scenery, I'll let the photos speak for themselves.
The Spaniards have a rather particular schedule, which, although it is not the most productive, does not seem to harm them since they are said to be among the happiest and most lively peoples in Europe. the longest. In general, most small businesses open in the morning from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., close from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. for lunch and a midday siesta, and open again from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m., Monday to Saturday. On Sundays, everything closes except for a few small cafes, restaurants and bars. A little advice that I learned the hard way: take it for granted that most businesses close on weekends, grocery stores of course, but especially bike shops...where you find bike pumps, among other things. .
Speaking of bike workshops, I have toured the ones in Benicarló (a nice total of three) and I can guarantee you that you will not find better service than at Nolo Biker. Manuel Julve, both owner and mechanic, is an enthusiast who masters the mechanics of the bike as well as he wheelies, that is to say impeccably. Valencian mountain bike champion, he is a wealth of information on the best routes to explore by bike around the city. He is also the personal mechanic of Friars of the Cross, five times Spanish triathlon champion, and international Ironman champion, a true inspiration for any lover of cycling, running or swimming. Having been her cycling escort during the Artichokes Half-Marathon (Benicarló's mascot vegetable) in February 2019, I had the chance to chat with her and her coach about the life of a professional sportswoman, training, and nutrition.
As for food, the raw material for any cyclist, I have discovered over time that it is very advantageous to be in a small village surrounded by farms. Every Wednesday, all the local producers meet in the central market place and display a thousand and one vegetables and fruits, fresh from the ground or picked from the fruit trees that I admire during my cycling adventures, and spends my time photographing (I think I can say with certainty that I have more pictures of orange trees than of landscapes). A short tour of the village every Wednesday is enough for me to buy my provisions for the week. I go to the central market, going from one stall to another, buying 4 potatoes here, 6 tomatoes there, salad, eggs laid by the neighbour's hen, a kilogram of the famous Benicarló olives , quinoa, chickpeas, organic oatmeal, freshly caught fish, etc. and I finish my little adventure at the best bakery around, of course, El Forn de Pa i Bolleria Santi, where I buy a cheesecake with blackberry jam, a loaf of wholemeal bread and some "cotos", the leftover shortcrust pastry used to make pies, cooked and sprinkled with vanilla sugar. Sounds dirty…it is! But these little delights put an end to the bottomless pit that my stomach becomes after 120km in the mountains, more than once.
The flavor, quality, price and nutritional value of these local foods are in no way comparable to what you find in supermarkets, which tend to import foods that are overproduced, or in large cities where we are ruined by wanting to eat healthily. I have never felt so energized as after a Benicarlois meal and, we won't lie to each other, a cyclist needs a monster quality caloric intake to be able to sustain the effort of the 250km training weeks. -400km (even though I am small, I eat like an ogre). Without forgetting the diet during training, of course. I can't count the number of times the freezesXact Nutrition and the Cliff bars saved my face. I have a nasty tendency to forget to eat or else push off pre-programmed "Eat!" reminders. » that my Garmin sends me every 45min drive (often inadvertently, because I am in full effort, at the front of the group and it slips my mind afterwards). I must say that I learn the hard way...
In short, Benicarló is a little pearl that I have had the chance to discover and rediscover on many occasions, and that I would recommend to any cyclist looking for an affordable escape for a small training (or exploration) camp mid - winter, a question of not forgetting how to pedal and keep your anti-pothole reflexes on the lookout while waiting for the start of the Quebec season. What could be better than a sunny drive for lunch, a few roadside oranges for dinner, and artichokes, seafood and good wine at Paul's at dinner ?